It is always a pleasure to observe a winery that’s firing on all cylinders. Bründlmayer is cruising comfortably, and at lofty altitudes. Yet if all the wines were perfect it could run the risk of feeling inhuman. There is always light and shade among the wines, and I think they like it that way. Either that or they are preternaturally good natured when we don’t agree about one wine or another. And it barely matters, really, when the overall level is so elite.
This group of recently arrived samples is a survey more than a comprehensive portrait, but that said, there’s a good slug of our opening act.
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