ANNUAL REPORT: SECOND-FLUSH DARJEELING 2024

I do not live in Darjeeling, and I have never visited there. I do not claim expertise. I do know how to ask the right questions to people who are experts and do live there, and evidently my questions aren’t pitiably silly. Much of what I’ve learned came courtesy of Kevin Gascoyne (the venerable yoda of the Canadian tea merchant Camelia Sinensis) as well as Niranjan Naulakha of Darjeeling Tea Boutique (a leading vendor) and, this year, Gopal Upadhayay of Teabox, the vendor I consider first-among-equals among the Darjeeing-based merchants who ship to the States.

Expert I am not, but I am an attentive and diligent taster with a mind that organizes impressions into plausible generalities and hypotheses, which I test constantly and adapt as new information warrants.

Each morning I brew a flight of three teas, each in a porcelain mug with its own (porcelain) infuser, each holding about a cup and a third. We have delicious “sweet” tap water here in Boston, which I am happy to use. (Filtered water takes too much body from the teas, I have found.) I steep – after trial and error – for three and a half minutes, but the second and third cups actually steep a bit longer, as it takes less time to pour the water over the leaves than it does to drain the infuser. I drink the teas while I read the newspaper – yes, an actual paper newspaper. I’m able to compare and contrast the teas out of the corner of my eyes, as it were, though if a tea is especially fine I’ll pause reading and pay it full attention.

This ritual is how my days begin, and I cherish it beyond measure.

I have detailed information about the “vintage” and if you request it I’ll share it gladly. For my current purpose, it suffices to say….

The 1st-flush season ended late and the 2nd-flush was hot on its heels. In some cases, it seemed, too hot. Some of the “in-between” teas plucked before the end of May were flaccid, overly light and feeble. By early June the flush was in full swing and several excellent teas were appearing, but by mid-June a premature monsoon arrived and the better properties (known as “gardens” if you’ve forgotten) suspended plucking until the weather improved. These late-plucked teas (August) had none of the “issues” with typical post-monsoonal teas, but were among the utter best of the season.

I’ve also noticed a surprising phenomenon. I’d always assumed the teas were at their best when they were at their freshest. Such teas are almost unbearably vivid aromatically and brisk (if not brusque) in the cup. My guideline was the fresher the better, and like all of my assumptions, this one was true until it wasn’t. I started to notice teas that seemed to improve after many months, and I winced to have misunderstood (and underrated) them. I also noticed that each year as the new teas arrived I had the impression they weren’t as good as last year’s teas. But I said the same thing last year, and the year before that, and I was forced to conclude that many, perhaps most of the teas got better over time.

So if I tell you that the ‘24s strike me as a smidge less good than the ‘23s, take it with a grain of salt. Clearly a direct apples-to-apples comparison is impossible; if I have both “vintages” of (say) Selimbong, even if I taste them side by side one is a year old and the other is a few months old. If I find the older tea to be better – or in this case even better – it could be the tea and it could be that it had the time it needed to be at its peak.

I’ll state direct opinions here, because I prefer not to clutter my text with endless qualifiers. But understand, these are the judgments of a talented and intelligent student who still has a lot to learn.

PART ONE: THE GARDENS

With very few exceptions, the gardens exist in a state of flux. This is due to frequent personnel changes, and some managers are better than others, just as some tea-makers are more talented than others. There are very few “Grand Crus” as we understand the term, i.e., properties offering reliably and consistently top quality year-in year-out. Instead, quality rises and falls and one needs to know who’s trending up and who’s trending down. In effect that’s what the vendors are for, and so I approach them as a wine guy would, trying to suss their preferences as tasters, look for explanations for what I perceive their “style” to be; that stuff. I’ll get into it further down, but for now, these are the gardens whose teas I obtained, and how they struck me in general.

Margaret’s Hope: this was offered by several vendors, both in Muscatel and “Moonlight” forms, and the best I can do is to damn with faint praise. I do not understand the esteem in which this garden is held, at least for 2nd flush teas. I see them offered by vendors I trust and buy them again and again, and I’ve never felt they were anything more than “perfectly pleasant.”

Okayti zoomed out of nowhere to give one of the very best teas of the season, an astounding lot from Tea Boutique. (Teabox had a late offering also, but by then I was overstocked.) Niranjan told me it was the last lot they selected and it was sort of a “coincidence.” Gopal at Teabox wrote me- “You’re spot on about Okayti as well. This year’s first flush has been particularly exceptional, and under new ownership, they’ve begun shedding their past association with 'Nepal Teas' and have significantly improved. We were fortunate to come across a remarkable batch this spring with a lovely fruity taste, reminiscent of ripe lychee. We launched it under our 'Signature Series' collection, and it was a true revelation. Definitely an estate to keep an eye on in the coming years!”

Giddapahar always seems to be everywhere, and after a few years where they were licking at the heels of the Grand Crus they seemed to settle back to their prevailing high (but not stellar) standards. I was told a change in methodology might be the culprit, but whatever it was the teas are much improved this year. I have them from Thunderbolt (themselves much improved) and Teabox and the basic Chinaries and Muscatels are direct, forceful, butt-kicking teas. Gopal writes: “Giddapahar has improved significantly in the past 5-6 years. It’s family-owned and led by a dynamic, hard-working owner, Mr. Sudhanshu Shaw, who actually stays at the estate 24/7. He single-handedly manages the entire production process and handles negotiations with buyers himself. He is a real taskmaster, never taking things for granted. His hard work and hands-on approach are evident in the teas the estate manufactures.”

Seeyok is quickly becoming my favorite garden. I’m told the overall quality is little more than ordinary but the bijou merchants snap up tiny lots of exceptional tea. Be that as it may, the last few years’ teas have been stellar, easily equal to the established Grand Crus, and consistently inspiring. That said, you don’t find them often; this year Teabox has two outrageously stunning teas and Mr. Mitra at Tea Emporium has a resplendent lot of which he is justifiably proud. Gopal reports: “Seeyok has consistently impressed us over the past five years. They've made significant field-level improvements, strictly adhering to organic farming practices, even following the lunar calendar for fine plucking during the season. Their dedication to quality truly shows in their teas, making it a joy for any discerning palate.”

I’d merely add, if you’re offered Seeyok, buy it. The small-production “Moonbeam Summer Muscatel” vies with the aforementioned Okayti as summits of the season.

Castelton: this venerable Grand Cru was available from three vendors (Tea Boutique, Thunderbolt, and Teabox) and if you want to glean what floats their respective boats, you should buy them all, as I did. All are glorious, with Teabox the most direct and forceful and the other two more along lines of umami-drenched regal powerhouses.

Gopal and I had a long exchange about this garden and the tea he offered….

“Regarding Castleton, the iconic "Home to Muscatels" has faced challenges over the last 4-5 years. In previous seasons, their teas were often over-fired, but this year showed improvement with a clean, non-fired character that allowed the muscatel notes to shine through.  We chose to purchase in the latter half of June, as we closely monitor weather patterns. Of course, connoisseurs like yourself are the ultimate judges of quality.

Castleton, located in the Kurseong Valley, has a distinct signature we expect in its muscatel. If you were to do a blind tasting, a true Castleton muscatel should stand out with its depth of flavor, distinct texture, and aroma. We also pay close attention to specific sections within the estate, as not all areas produce the same quality. For instance, Castleton’s Gauri Shankar or Bhutta Kheti sections, with their vintage Chinary bushes (more than 60-70 years old), have consistently yielded the best muscatels in our experience. Understanding these micro-terroirs and working closely with estate managers gives our selections at Teabox their unique edge.”

Selimbong, a standout in 2023, is again among the very best. It’s only offered by Teabox, but it’s a must-buy – especially if you like Jungpana. Again, Gopal offered useful wisdom about the revival of this once-notable garden:  “Your observation about Selimbong's resurgence is spot on. Once a top estate in the 1990s, it produced teas this season with an aromatic intensity that nearly rivaled even Seeyok’s finest. Mr. J.P. Gurrung, Director at Tea Promoters India and a veteran planter, shared his excitement, saying, "It’s a real joy to see an old estate back to its glory days!"”

Turzum seems to excel in the more delicate clonals, within which it has a niche. Offered by Nathmull’s, Tea Emporium, and (notably) by Thunderbolt I found the teas consistently very good, if a jot below the remarkable. Mr. Mitra at Tea Emporium would not agree! His “organic mystic” lot is delightful, if not amazing.

Liza Hill is not often seen. I don’t recall whether it’s a sub-section of Reeshihat or whether they share ownership, but my experience with the garden is, the teas are always good and never great. The only example this was a clonal “moonlight” type from Tea Boutique that was roughly the quality of the Arya Ruby.

Ringtong came out of nowhere last year and gave one of the vendors a surprise highlight, so I bought a chinary this year from Nathmull’s, and it’s again very good. This seems to be a garden to watch. Gopal writes: “Ringtong is a single proprietorship estate led by Mr. Sanjay Chowdhury. Located just next to Margaret's Hope, it was closed for many years. Sanjay ji took the initiative and reopened the estate in the latter half of 2014/15. Since then, he has worked on the production processes year after year—working in the fields, renovating the factory, and reaching out to old buyers abroad. His efforts are showing in the improved quality he has been producing over the past 2-3 years.”

Genburn is another dark-horse garden. After a fine tea in 2023 I bought two this year – both from Nathmull’s – one called “clonal fantasy” and the other “muscatel wonder.” (They like colorful names in Darjeeling, and you’ll encounter no end of “mystics” and “enigmas.”) Both teas are very good, just below the highest class.

Phuguri is a garden I knew well, when it was the top-of-category at a German merchant (Geschwedner) who (sadly) opted to exit the single-garden Darjeeling business. The teas were near the very best in quality along clonal lines, but a special lot from Teabox was the sole disappointment in that collection. I keep diddling the brewing to try and unlock the depth I’d grown to expect, but to no avail. The tea tastes….weary.

That brings us to Gopaldhara/Rohini, whose teas I have always enjoyed and which sometimes reach the highest heights. This year was spotty. There were some promising sounding late releases but by then I was loaded up with tea and didn’t need any more. Two high spots were the “Everest Orchid” and the “Gold Thor” which they sell as an oolong but which is plenty sturdy. Last year’s masterpieces (“Plum Muscatella” and “Gold Thread Reserve”) were curiously flaccid. I’ll stand by this judgment for the teas I obtained, but these represent only 70% of the season. I hope for a return to high standards again.

Puttabong was confined to Nathmull’s, and the “Muscatel Crest” is close to stellar. A ”moonlight” style clonal is also quite good in that idiom. I used to think of Puttabong as sturdy and 4-square, but these teas request a look with fresh eyes.

And now to Arya, generally considered one of the very best gardens. Their famous clonals are sold as “Ruby” and “Diamond,” and these are considered among the greatest examples of the type. But in the last couple years I’ve begun to wonder; the flavors are there, and of course the lovely fragrances, but the teas have lacked the structural intensity that has made them masterpieces in the past. I have them from Tea Boutique, Thunderbolt and Nathmull’s, and they are very good, and one expects them to be more than “very good.” I have two basic muscatels, which have impressed me as much as the deluxe teas. One’s from Tea Boutique and the other’s from Nathmull’s.

Singbulli continues its reliable nature, and there’s a lot to be said for a garden whose teas are always very good and sometimes excellent. I have a muscatel from Nathmull’s and a lovely “moonshine” type from Tea Emporium, that’s at least as good as the top Aryas. The garden makes truly elegant teas, never clamorous, always savory and tasty.

I have a single tea from Thurbo, sold by Tea Boutique, that’s one of the weird wonders of the season. It has the torque and power one expects from Niranjan’s selections – and he’s told me he likes them strong – but with herbal flavors at odds with the muscatel “type.” I love the tea, and it’s like almost nothing else in the season.

Samabaeong is (or was) a favorite of Kevin Gascoyne for its first flush, but I’ve been consistently impressed and fascinated by the (few) 2nd flush teas I’ve ever seen. I’d describe them as the winiest teas in all of Darjeeling. You sometimes see the word “Burgundy” thrown around  in labeling by some gardens, but in this case the term is apt; the teas taste like red Burgundy. I have just two, a splendid example from Tea Emporium and a serious masterpiece from Teabox. Apropos of which, here's a shout-out from my friend Gopal – “Samabeong is absolutely a hidden gem in Darjeeling. It has shown significant improvement over the past 3-4 years. Managed by Tea Promoters India, who also own Seeyok & Selimbong, it's definitely an estate with immense potential. The owners, led by young, dynamic Gautam Mohan, have done real work at the field level—a rarity in Darjeeling these days. He has planted many young cultivars at the estate, and this will bear fruit in the years to come!”

Barnesburg is a one-off selection by Thunderbolt, one of three “moonlight” types Benoy offers – and I find it the most satisfying. It may not have “noble” flavor but it has vivid flavor, and if you find this kind of tea a little too ethereal, this one declares itself.

Singell was the garden whose tea improved most dramatically over the months in the ’23 collection. I bought some from Tea Emporium, and this rich yet tactful tea also seems to be growing more expressive.

Last of all – and yes, I do have a fuck-ton of Darjeeling – is a Chamong I bought from Teabox simply because I couldn’t recall ever tasting that garden. The tea is solid, with the smoky savor common to so many of Teabox’s selections.

SOME WORDS ABOUT THE VENDORS

I didn’t buy from Darjeeling Tea Lovers because their complete offering wasn’t launched until mid-October – the Autumn-flush season. I didn’t buy from Golden Tips because it’s a mirror-business of Nathmull’s, offering the same teas but with fancy names. I didn’t buy from Vahdam because I’m not sure they’re serious about single garden teas, and I disapprove of the use of “tea” to describe any random infusion of any old thing. They’re hardly alone in doing so, but it rankles me. In any case you can’t buy from everyone, and the vendors I support are clearly the most creative, serious, and conscientious.

There are a few who are deeply and intrinsically local to Darjeeling. Benoy Thapa at Thunderbolt  is perhaps the smallest and most artisanal, and I’ve spend many years trying to suss his selection criteria, but my guy is a moving target. His ’24 selections offer a return to form after (what I considered) a trough last year. He likes a lot of savor and juice in his teas, and while his descriptions are sometimes hyperbolic, they are charmingly so. It is highly instructive to taste his Castleton alongside Teabox’s; Benoy’s is large-scaled and impressionistic, with constantly unfurling umami, while Teabox’s is full-frontal muscatel, with the burning-leaf smokiness so many of their teas show.

Darjeeling Tea Boutique is the classicist of the group. Niranjan is a prince of a man, and his teas are entirely reliable.  Though Teabox is a “competitor”, Gopal had these handsome sentiments to share: “Regarding Darjeeling Tea Boutique (DTB), I truly admire Niranjan’s dedication to the craft. His commitment to sourcing the best teas is something we deeply respect. As you know, sourcing single-origin teas, particularly Darjeeling’s finest, requires more than just business sense—it demands passion, dedication, and an intimate understanding of the estates and their challenges. Keeping track of weather patterns, maintaining strong relationships with estate managers, and having a genuine love for the tea itself—these are crucial and irreplaceable elements.”

That said, there were a couple rogue offerings from DTB in 2024. Margaret’s Hope and Liza Hill broke the prevailing mold, best displayed by their Okayti and Castleton lots. And for someone who likes his muscatels strong and sturdy, Niranjan also has a calmer side, as shown by his clonals from Arya.

Tea Emporium is perhaps the most conservative of the top vendors. Consider that a compliment. Mr. Mitra’s is always among the earliest offerings, and this year he was particularly adroit in sourcing some excellent lots before the untimely rains in mid-June. His collection is rounded and proportional (and his packaging is, let’s say, old fashioned), but I’ve come to rely on him to offer teas always near and sometimes at the top of the season.

Because Nathmull’s offering is so large, it would be easy to write them off as “commercial,” but in fact they always seem to have hidden gems on hand. What they don’t have is a discernible point-of-view, which is neither here nor there. Each year there are a couple teas that surprise me with their excellence.

That brings me at last to Teabox, which has roared ahead in the past few years to become….not “the best” because that term is inherently misleading, but first among equals. And in 2024 they were truly and seriously stellar.

I’ve gleaned a style among their offerings, or I think I have (or suppose or imagine that I have), but one never knows if such things are just the clatter of one’s own mind. Over the years with wine growers I’ve found that the things I taste as signature elements of their work are not often the things they themselves say they set about to do. (Johannes Selbach and Helmut Dönnhoff are exceptions to this tendency, and when either of them says what he desires from his wines, you’ll listen and think “Yes, I taste that.”) So I know it can be a fool’s errand to try and goad a purveyor to describe what (s)he tries to do – yet I can’t help myself.

This is why I wrote to Gopal to ask “I find a consistent style among your offerings, and I wonder whether this is intentional, and whether we’d agree on how to describe it.” I sometimes worry a query like that would create weary eye rolls and thoughts of Hoo boy, another one of those, but he answered me most cordially, and a fruitful dialogue ensued. It started with my writing to him…

You have a definite stamp. The teas are both intense and rich. The richness takes the form of an interior “sweetness” along lines of the Japanese word umami. It rides in the center of the tea as much as it does on the surface. This is even true of your spicy teas, such as the recent Seeyok and Castleton I just received. Imagine you’re roasting a chicken; there’s a moment when you first smell the bird cooking, which is the start of the fragrance of done-ness, and it is that almost caramel-type sweetness that I find in your teas in general, and certain ones (Selimbong from 23 and 24, and Jungpana from 23 are perfect examples) in particular. Another one is Samabeong, which I was glad to see in your offering (and which is a fascinating comparison alongside of Mr. Mitra’s example.)

This leads me to my question. I am imagining your taster(s) going through a group of different invoices from (let’s say) Castleton, and my question is, when one of them stands out (as it inevitably does), what does it have that made it the best of the group?

His reply, while generous, was only partially useful. He wrote: “Our Chief Taster, Mr. A.K. Gomden, who pioneered Muscatel tea at Castleton estate in 1985, played an instrumental role in guiding our selections this year. His deep understanding of Darjeeling’s terroir, combined with our team’s on-the-ground efforts, ensures that only the highest-quality teas make it to our offerings.

“Thank you for your thoughtful response and further insights. I’m glad you’ve enjoyed the depth and richness of some of our teas – your analogy to the umami sweetness of a perfectly roasted chicken is a wonderful one.”

Well, okay. I think what I really need to do, someday, is to be a fly on the wall when they’re tasting the various lots (called “invoices” in local parlance) and try to comprehend why they choose what they chose. I’m sure the last thing they need at such a time is the yammering questions of some tea galoot, and it’s also possible that all of this is otiose. After all, the style is in the tasting, and often what’s responsible for the “style” is that they liked the way things happened to taste. If the style is (or seems) consistent, that would be because human taste can be consistent.

Still, I seek to know.

Finally, the best teas of the season, among those I have tasted and from the vendors with whom I do business.

OKAYTI from Tea Boutique is so shockingly excellent I’m tempted to call it thebest-of-season, but I’ll try to be more mature, for once.

SELIMBONG  from Teabox. If top-flight single vineyard Grüner Veltliner took the form of tea, this is the form it would take.

CASTLETON, honestly from all three vendors (Tea Boutique, Thunderbolt and Teabox), with my subjective preference going to Teabox.

SEEYOK, from Teabox, both the regular (and outrageously good) muscatel and the “Moonbeam.”

SAMABAEONG, crucially from Teabox but also from Tea Emporium.

Will I ever persuade you, my wine loving friends, to give teas a chance? Maybe not, but I will only repeat what I’ve written many times; if you’re looking for a beverage conducive to the wine sensibility, that engages most of the seme elements of palate and of meaningful anchoring to origin and craftsmanship, tea in general and these teas especially will be at home in your world, and you’ll be at home in theirs.